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Rock Climbing in the Allegheny National Forest: Where: The Allegheny National Forest is located in Pennsylvania. We are focusing on a small section of the forest near Warren, PA. Pennsylvania rock climbing is arguably better on the other end of the state. However, this is where we live, so we tend to focus on rock climbing in the Allegheny National Forest near Warren Pennsylvania. Types of Climbing: The climbing northwest PA consists mainly of bouldering, top roping, and short sport routes. The vast majority of these rocks range between 6 and 50 feet in height. The established boulder problems are usually between 6 and 15 feet. Some odd playthings like "Cousin It" are much shorter, and there are highball problems as well. Allegheny National Forest rock climbing specializes in the nondescript rocks that lie somewhere between the highball boulder problem and the roped route. Thus, there is a vast ground of sleeping stones, unexploited and ripe with potential short climbs, and scary highballs. Our roped routes are short in nature (established routes max out at 50 feet). Nearly all of them are top rope or sport routes. Note: if you find yourself trad climbing in our neck of the woods odds are SOMETHING IS WRONG! Rock: I would venture a guess that 90% of the rock in the Northwest ANF is crap (nasty, chossy, undesirable shit) and is not worth wasting your time. Of the remaining 10% (that is climbable) only half is quality rock. That rock is sandstone. And from what I have gleaned from my travels, some would call it Gritstone. It is a coarse grained sandstone, and its friction coefficient is both wonderful and horrible. Route names like "Pink & Weepy" and "Human Ooze (project)" are no coincidence. Season: Though I would not count on it, you can climb year round. In fact, I have had some great climbing days in January and February. Winter tends to be too wet and cold. Summer tends to be too humid, and the man-eating insects can make things less than fun. Spring is good. The temps are usually low and the forest has yet to grow its protective (stifling) canopy, which blocks the cooling breeze that dries the rocks and de-bugifies. Fall is truly the best time to climb. It is much like spring, yet tends to be less humid and the pre-winter air amplifies the rock's friction.
History: I am currently researching the history of climbing in the Northwest ANF. I have been climbing here for roughly 7 years. I know that there were climbers here before the most recent band of rapscallions hit the scene; however the details are not clear. If you have any information that would lead to my edification, please contact me. Areas: The most "popular" areas with rock formations are Rim Rock, Jake's Rocks, and Minister Creek; however, the local climbers rarely climb there. We tend to frequent South Slater and Hilltop. In addition, there are many areas such as Hedgehog, Area 251, and Buckshot that will be seeing more traffic soon. There are other, neglected finds like 111 and The Amphitheater. I have not bother posting directions, maps, or guides for any of these areas yet. I have personally documented nearly 300 routes, though my efforts to compile data does not include all of the established routes that I am aware of. If you are interested in directions and route information let your voice be heard. Otherwise, I am going to neglect this so as to put more time toward new route development. |